The Scottish Highlands, Part I

On our way to the Highlands (Nairn) we had two very pleasant diversions.  The first was unexpected, as we were searching for a place to eat and potty, and came across a little gem called The Grouse and Claret just south of Perth.  I am going to take this opportunity to make two things very clear:

1) The Scottish people are remarkably kind, helpful, pleasant, accommodating - insert any positive adjective you can think of here.  We have been in Scotland 8 days and have yet to encounter anyone who is even remotely poopy. 

2)  SCOTTISH FOOD IS AMAZING.  That statement not only deserves all caps, but should also be underlined and in bold.  We had heard any number of reports about how bad the food would be while traveling in the UK, and our memories of British food was bland at best, but THIS food is anything but. Given the miles of farmland and close proximity to the ocean, everything we eat is remarkably fresh.  We have been eating like kings and have yet to have a meal that was disappointing or left us hungry.  It has all been superb - even the dreaded haggis!

Our second diversion was the impressive Dunnotar Castle along the eastern coast in the Grampian Highlands on the south side of the Highlands boundary.   Built in the 5th century, it was a stronghold in the fight for Scottish independence against, well ... everyone, including themselves, it seems.  At one point it kept safe the Scottish Crown Jewels - aka Honours of Scotland - (which we saw in all of their glory at Edinburgh Castle) for 10 years from Oliver Cromwell who was trying to abolish all vestiges of the royal monarchy.  The castle changed hands many times over during it's turbulent history and at one point housed prisoners of the Jacobite Rebellion.  It was eventually sold to the York Building Company in the early 1700s which stripped the castle of everything of value, leaving only the shell.  It wasn't until 1925 that Lady Cowdray acquired the property to preserve it and although the drawing room is the only area that has been completely restored, it is easy to see how magnificent this fortress once was.  The ruins of the living quarters, towerhouse, keep, smithy, chapel, and stables are still in place, as well as the fascinating Whig's Vault where more than 150 prisoners were kept during part of Dunnotar's darker years.  Important visitors to Dunnotar include William Wallace who besieged the castle in 1297 and Mary Queen of Scots who spent time on the rock in 1562.

The Rock

View of tower house and stables

After leaving Dunnotar, the GPS got us lost (no really - it directed us somehow to the middle of nowhere) but due to the help of a friendly Scot (did I mention that they are friendly?) who directed us first to some wonderful pizza (did I mention the food is good?) and then to the highway which led us to the beautiful and quaint coastal town of Nairn.  Our first day we roamed about taking in the seaside views, finding shells, playing tennis, sampling local fare, and learning about lawn bowling at the St. Ninian Bowling Club. 

Our new friends showing us the proper way to bowl

The next day we made a trip to Culloden Battlefield where the Catholics (Scots/French) fought the Protestants (Scots/English) under the foolish leader Prince Charles Stuart (the Pretender to the Throne) .  In this battle 4,000 Catholics lost 1,500 clansmen against the 7,000 Protestant troops who only lost 50 men.   Those who were not killed in the battle were hanged as traitors, imprisoned, or sold as slaves and sent by ship to the New World.  This battle was important because it essentially abolished the clan system for almost 200 years, eradicated the Gaelic language, prohibited the wearing of the tartan or plaid, and forbid Scots from carrying weapons.  This forced many Scots away from home to colonize other parts of the British Empire.  The battlefield itself is a relatively unremarkable expanse of heather, Gorse bush and wildflowers, but the visitor's center offered a sobering surround-style re-enactment film which reminded us all of why it is important to question our leaders.  Oy!  The staff was excellent and well-educated on the battle as well as Scotland's history and provided demonstrations of weaponry and costumes that were very entertaining.  Chris and the kids re-enacted the battle and modeled 18th century fashion.

Linskey reenactment of the battle at Culloden field.  Not historically accurate, as here it is Scots 2, Redcoats 1.

Monument to the fallen clans

A stone was put in place to recognize the clans who fought and lost their lives

After leaving the battlefield and saying goodbye to a shaggy Heilan' coo, we enjoyed a picnic lunch (Noah reported the chicken salad sandwich was questionable) at Clava Cairns nearby.  These stone circles date back 3-4,000 years and were likely built by the Picts or their predecessors.  The tombs have the doorways facing to line up with the setting of the winter solstice sun (coincidence?  I think not), and have cupped markings on some of the stones which could be used to hold the spirits of the dead or for keeping a latte warm, who really knows?  At any rate, they were very cool.  Some visitors report having a strange, unearthly feeling come over them at this site, but Noah thinks it is likely just the chicken salad.

First stone circle with one of the cairns, or burial tombs, visible on the left.

Split stone in the 3rd stone circle

So, we'll stop there as the Highlands are vast and ridiculously beautiful and they deserve as much representation as possible.  The weather calls for heavy rain, so my guess is I'll be back again soon!